Sunday, December 25, 2011

Chef Markus Iten on gastronomy in Egypt


I grew up in a small mountain village called Unteraegeri in Swizterland, cold and rarely sunny in my days. I had to go to school and started my culinary education on my 16th birthday in the best place in my province. Currently I work as Master Trainer at the Culinary Training Centres in Egypt (6th of October and Luxor) under the umbrella of the Egyptian Tourism Federation and the Minister of Tourism. I am also the Founder and President of the Egyptian Chefs Association and Assistant Continental Director, Middle East and Africa for the World Association of Chef Societies. My two real hobbies, besides squash and an occasional a game of golf, is, of course, off-road driving in the Egyptian desert

1. What is the state of Egyptian gastronomy in hotels versus the street?
You are better off in a street restaurant than in a hotel. Why? Well let’s say, price - quality comparison is not realised in hotels. Unfortunatelysomerestaurants, trying to be trendy, tend to follow suit. There seems to be a main misconception of most hotel and restaurant operators - both chefs and customers - that quality foods must be expensive. Using fresh and correct products, storing, handling and preparing them correctly, would uplift a simple red cabbage to a classic delight. This exactly is missing: chefs who can prepare a tasty stew not only steaks. It still takes me six hours to make a Bolognese sauce for my pasta. It simply takes that long if cooked the correct way. The record in Egypt is 12 minutes. I hope you got the message. 

2. What is your favorite restaurant in Egypt? (other than yours!)
NONE, home I guess and Nicola's kitchen (not a restaurant, but a good friend), where I usually eat so much great food that I have trouble to fall asleep.
I have been to many places, but not one could give me the same meal week after week. Well, if I am lenient, there are some places I like to go sometimes, because they are “simple and straightforward” and do not have loud music. Charwoods in Mohandisin, Allegria in the SODIC Golf Club, Bua Khao in Maadi, Andrea – Pyramids for a good roasted chicken, and in Zamalek: La Bodega , Pup 28 , Trattoria, Sofitel El Gezirah Kebabgy, . I may be wrong, but chefs are usually never wrong.

3. Do you have suggestions for gourmet-ifying Egyptian food?
I do not really understand the question.
I guess you mean is: what are connoisseurs looking for. Well simply, healthy and tasty foods, where the hot food is served hot and cold food cold, appealing and safe food both in the summer and in the winter.
For operators, the direction to go is also easy. Keep it simple and tasty at the highest possible quality, make a plate, make a recipe, establish the standard and NEVER EVER compromise on it. That is a win-win situation for all concerned: operator, staff and customers.

4. What are the most important skills of a modern-day chef?
Modern or old (I am old) has no meaning. What matters is: "That I am only as good a chef as my last plate served to a customer or friend."
This means great love and dedication for your work - never mind the hours - but only have the customers in mind to fulfil their needs.and have them come back again and again. Basically, knowledge and skill is, and always has been, the base for a good chef and, therefore, good food.

5. What are the newest trends in gastronomy?
Light, healthy, tasty, appealing, fresh foods. In any cuisine those are the basics. If provided anywhere in the world it would benefit the customer, the restaurant, the city and the country itself.

6. What is being appreciated around the world and what is being opened here in Egypt?
Quality before Quantity. Egypt is still lacking behind in this aspect. Education, training, availability of quality foods is a must to get any simple operation up and running.

7. How much do you rely on molecular gastronomy?
None whatsoever. I have seen it, I have tasted it. I prefer a good meal with actual foods and natural flavours. Full stop. Also molecular cuisine and fusion cuisine are worldwide almost passed their time already. Trends like that are not there to stay. Customers maybe want to experiment once in a while, but in the end always prefer a good straightforward meal. They like to know what they are eating. Ask anyone what their favourite meal is and see how many answer with a dish their mother used to cook. That is why regional and ethnic cuisines will always stay popular.

8. What are the newest trends in the restaurant business?
Street food with a twist in Egypt, or better said: modernising Egyptian street food to be served in restaurants. Regional-Traditional Cuisine in Europe, Asian cuisine keeps on growing in popularity worldwide. Western fast food concepts are losing in popularity - or so I hope. I also believe Michelin star restaurants and chefs will be less popular in the future. Just because the chefs can’t stand the stress to keep up the stars and less and less people have the money to eat at such places. And, of course, most people just eat what they can afford, well I actually do not know.

9. Who is your favorite chef?
By all means, a bit loud and vulgar by times, but a top PROFESSIONAL, Gordon Ramsay

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